The route up the south ridge is straightforward, although a nice trail has formed on the east side higher up the ridge. After talking to a few friends I found Alex was also keen on driving south for some sunnier weather and our ambitious plan was to knock off all three sisters in a weekend trip. Washington, Three Fingered Jack, Mt. This is the most difficult of Oregon's Three Sisters. But each climber has to make that decision. The safest way, as in 2004, is to wait for the snow to melt totally and cross the loose rocks that it usually covers. Log in and send us First ascent was by H. H. Prouty in 1910. It's pretty easy to solo, but with a larger group you probably want a fixed rope. If you don't have much Alpine experience, or just want the security of seasoned veterans guiding you up this mountain, then I strongly recommend you sign up with them. This photo shows the ascent route from Arrowhead Lake up toward the Black Fin. Many accidents occur when climbers are unfamiliar with a descent route or choose a poor one. Permits are required and are self-service and free at the trailhead for the east side approach. Top climbing months. Climb left on solid rock (class 3) to small headwall. NS is a pretty awesome volcano - just committing enough to keep your attention (constantly), but not so kamikaze to be overtly dangerous. Mt. 7) We came into the Bowling Alley after climbing in solitude for 4 hours to find a large group (11) occupying a fixed line from the BA to the summit ridge. Sleeping and eating conditions on overnight trips are not always ideal. As you get to it, traveling northward on the summit ridge, climb it as soon as you can and savor the last 30 diagonaling feet to the top. Looking back at North Sister, The day then continues with an ascent of Middle Sister. With a summit elevation of 6,644 feet it is commonly seen from Highway 542. Mt. Also johngo when replying to someone (like with EastKing above), use that little 'reply' link next to their comment. For West side routes, use the Mckenzie Pass Highway. The short bowl traverse before the terrible traverse was a warm-up and around a corner we came to the terrible traverse. Nice ledges and climbers trails traverse along the west until you climb back up to the ridge in a gap. Thank you for providing such a detailed description, it really makes it clear exactly what one is getting into on N Sister. (1), Comments (As mentioned in some of my previous photos, please avoid the common mistake of ascending the gully with the red X marks.). Date-change requests are subject to availability and cost $50 per booking. Looking down the Collier Glacier side, A zoomed-in view of Mt. knowing how solid (ahem) this mountain is, they may have fallen off. Old Mill Campground. This is a beautiful and remote alpine summit involving plenty of time on incredibly steep andexposed climbing to get to the summit. The traditional route starts from Devil's Lake campground crossing over highway 46 before making a forest ascent to the South Sister base. Then you have come to the right place! Our guides can only make decisions based on the speed of the team relative to current conditions and forecasted weather. After a few hours of stumbling on the trails we finally arrived at the base of the North Sister. We spent hours traversing (and descending at times) in a burnt forest. However, our priority is always to descend safely, even if that is because we cant move fast enough to complete the objective. There is a steep exposed snowfield to cross (terrible traverse) just before the Bowling Alley that doesnt melt until mid-summer. Elie is a popular seaside resort town in the East Neuk of Fife, located approximately 45 miles from Edinburgh. North Sister Oregon Hiking & Climbing Access From the west, off Highway 242, 4 miles west of McKenzie Pass is a well-marked sign for the Obsidian Trailhead. Rock Climbing, Ice Climbing, Mountaineering, Indoor Climbing . Take I-5 to just north of Mount Vernon, then go east on SR-20 to Sedro Wooley. All with the Mazamas. Climb the couloir (maximum angle about 45 degrees). peter wallace mountain climbing accidentNitro Acoustic. We strongly recommend that you purchase travel insurance for your trip that includes cancel for any reason and evacuation. However, this isnt an objective to be treated lightly and certainly falls into the category of alpine climbing. Early ascents [ edit] North Sister - Climbers swept by avalanche while descending Thayer Glacier Snowfield. After that we found a loose scree chute (class 2+) to ascend back onto the S. Ridge crest. 8) Please heed johngo'd advice about keeping the party together in the BA. World renowned for rock climbing, Hueco Tanks State Historic Site is also known for its many American Indian rock paintings and unique geology. Our programs operate between 7,000 and 15,000 feet in the United States, and up to 19,000 feet internationally. Photo by Alex R. Onto the ridge crest now. The rock on North Twin Sister makes for very pleasant climbing though be careful of loose rock. The most common route is up the south ridge and is what is shown on this page. North and Middle will be the last of the 10k plus in Oregon for me. For the summit day, well establish our basecamp near the toe of the Northeast Arete. The same approach can be used for North Sister, so some climbers will turn this into a multi-day expedition and climb both peaks from a basecamp in the middle. Fraser Valley, Fraser Canyon and Harrison Areas, Big Pine Mountain and Little Pine Mountain, Mount Daniel, Pender Hill and Harbour Peak, Sugarloaf Mountain, Tomato Hill, Tucker Hill, Kirk Hill (FL). Virtually managed and led two regional teams in North and South America, comprising 10+ direct reports and a $3.2B PMO budget . By 6 pm we had crossed the border and long story short, Alex did an excellent job driving all the way to the trail-head by 1:30 am in the morning. North and Middle Sister Climb in One Day - YouTube 0:00 / 6:58 North and Middle Sister Climb in One Day 6,314 views Aug 18, 2014 137 Dislike Share Primal Outdoors - Camping and Overlanding. This is a wonderful resource! Full payment is due 60 days before your programs start date. All rights reserved (About Us). If you arent staying at Timberline, consider coming a couple days earlier and taking some day hikes above the lodge to gradually expose your body to the increased demands of exertion at altitude. Move to about 100 ft right of crest and progress to about 800 ft from drop-off crag. Camping is allowed around the mountain. If you have any long-term side-effects from past injuries or illness please include these in your medical history. Basic Alpine Climb, Strenuous 2, Technical 1. If you are on 5th class rock, you are not on-route. This website is using a security service to protect itself from online attacks. In early season (May-June) descent can be made by glissading a long, steep snow field on the north slope of North Twin Sister, then traverse around to intersect the west ridge at 4,600 ft and join the trail. It involves a long ascent on steep snow to reach the summit ridge. Plant a tree It's generally recommended to climb when the mountain is frozen and has some snow cover to avoid as much loose rock as possible. From the west, off Highway 242, 4 miles west of McKenzie Pass is a well-marked sign for the Obsidian Trailhead. :) You are very welcome, good luck on your climb next year. When I go I now have exactly the resource I need! In summer conditions, the traverse to the Bowling Alley, the final summit pitch up a loose, steep gulley, is on a narrow, crumbly, loose rock ledge and the Bowling Alley is Class 4 junk. Weather is often unpredictable and may disrupt climbing. Aconcagua mountain page is a child of the 'Aconcagua Group' and the 'Seven Summits.' Please review our cancellation policy. The traverse on steep snow and alpine ice involves placing snow protection and confident footwork. Actually, the mountain has two pinnacles: the Glisan is on the north and the Prouty is on the south (with its two horns). North Sister - Climbing with Allan Throop. Belleisle 15. My sister, Kate, later sent me a photo of her doing this climb in the summer and saying how hot it was. updates, images, or resources. The value of being with a professional, certified, guide and guiding organization was evident throughout. Children refers to the set of objects that logically fall under a given object. You bet, friend! The mountain environment is constantly changing, so you must be prepared for any weather. We are not the experts and ask you to consult the individual travel insurance company that you choose to go with. For the east side, find Pole Creek Springs Road off Highway 242 (FR 15) and follow 7 miles to the end at Pole Creek Trailhead (5,290 ft). Because of the late arrival time we set the alarms at 7 am. A short but awkward mixed, class 4 step later we were at the base of that bowling alley. You can email the site owner to let them know you were blocked. Feel free to save this onto your smart phone or print it out for your North Sister trip. What you cannot see here is the snow and ice ahead, Looking down from inside the bowling alley, To bypass snow we scrambled exposed class 4 rock on climbers right, More class 3 scrambling to gain the summit ridge, Alex traversing a ledge near the summit block, A lower sub-summit from the true summit of North Sister, This is the eastern side view. There are at least eleven routes on North Sister. Jefferson is much harder from the snow/ice perspective and Three Fingered Jack and Mt. Today in Naval History - Naval / Maritime Events in History 4 May 1945 - USS Morrison - On 4 May 1945, in the Battle of Okinawa, the US destroyer was sunk after being hit by four kamikaze aircraft. Re: climbing route north side of south sister Post by BCJ August 30th, 2008, 11:39 pm SummitPost.org is a great resource for researching routes on mountains. The second objective exceeded our expectation. This road is improved and in good shape. North Sister 6.0 mi route. I suspect Anthony Marra's line roughly follows the blue line, but I might be wrong (2022-05-23). But, sounds like you were faster anyway Congrats! Turning around without reaching the summit:The guide will make a decision to turn back if they feel that the group is being placed in jeopardy. I think after reading this it confirms my desire to do this late spring/early summer instead of taking on the scree. This is a page from the online guidebook, 'Skiing the Cascade Volcanoes', a part of Amar Andalkar's Ski Mountaineering and Climbing Site. Become part of a century-long tradition in the Pacific Northwest. North Sister is accessed by a ridge that looks, close-up, to be much worse than the ridge I had just scrambled up, and it is topped by a pair of spectacular spires, both over 200 feet high. The road is in good shape and easy to follow. THE ULTIMATE HITCHHIKER'S GUIDE DOUGLAS ADAMS Complete & Unabridged Contents: Introduction: The Hitchhiker's Guide to the Galaxy Chapter 1 Chapter 2 Chapter 3 Chapter 4 Chapter 5 Chapter 6 Chapter 7 Chapter 8 Chapter 9 Chapter 10 Chapter 11 Chapter 12 Chapter 13 Chapter 14 Chapter 15 Chapter 16 Chapter 17 Chapter 18 Chapter 19 Chapter 20 Chapter 21 Chapter 22 Chapter 23 Chapter 24 Chapter 25 . Contents move to sidebar (Top) 1 Climbing Toggle Climbing subsection 1.1 Injuries and deaths 2 Lagangarbh Hut 3 In popular culture 4 Photography 5 See also 6 References 7 External links Toggle the table of contents Buachaille Etive Mr 11 languages Brezhoneg Cymraeg Deutsch Franais Gaeilge Gidhlig Italiano Nederlands Norsk nynorsk Polski This part of snow was much softer on the way back. Park at the gated bridge across the Nooksack even if the gate is open (1200 ft). This causes your response to show on their profile page. From here scramble along the base of the wall in the direction of your chosen climb. I do not intend to climb North Sister again, nor do I recommend anyone do so. Photo by Alex R. Me near the treeline. Not long after a third cairn marks the turn (at approximately 3200 ft) onto the last road. "From the top of Glisan Pinnacle either climb the NE shoulder of Prouty Pinnacle or descend and climb the regular westside route." This wasnt the standard route and turned out a little bit harder than expected (exposed class 4), but such terrain wouldnt impose much problem to us nonetheless. Testa's husband, Nicholas Testa of Corvallis, reported her missing Sunday evening when she failed to return home. Climbing and mountaineering involve inherent risks many that we can manage to a degree some that are beyond our control. A hard surface usually warrant carrying an ice ax. Spectacular views of Mount Baker and Puget Sound. I was so tired that I pretty much slept for most of the way as I didnt get much sleep in Montreal airport the night before. Photo by Alex R. We should have kept ascending farther to the west side of the col in order to use snow to gain the upper south ridge, but havent been there in the past we naturally went up the treadmill scree and rubble slopes immediately next to the col, which sucked a big time. Class 3 down-climbing to get back into the upper bowling alley: As you can see there were snow and ice in the alley, Down-climbing exposed class 4 to bypass snow and ice, This is the bottom step to get out of bowling alley, Alex starting back across the terrible traverse, Partway back across the traverse. I will use it for my beta for next years climb. Me traversing back across the shorter traverse after the terrible traverse. The top section includes a scramble up a rough-shod slope of scree. Pictograph tours are offered, as well as hiking, picnicking, climbing and camping opportunities. Testa, 35, set out to climb the North Sister by herself on Saturday. Hiking to the ridge from Lions Bay takes approximately four hours and gains 1,280 m (4,199 ft) in elevation. We did bring two 30m ropes and there was a solid anchor but we figured itd be faster to just down-climb. Or are you interested in an overview of the Mazamas, our Publications, and more? Not much to see as you can see, A glimpse of South Sister from the intermittent clouds. Cloudflare Ray ID: 7a15f2532e7f7332 The standard route is via South Ridge and involves some steep snow traverses and exposed class 3-4 scrambling on not-so-great rocks. Tax ID: 27-3009280. If you have a history of altitude illness, you may want to talk to your doctor about using Diamox at even lower elevations, as well as obtaining a prescription for emergency dexamethasone. Go around the right side of the headwall formed by Glisan Pinnacle, or climb the headwall directly." Many variations. Log in and send us We followed the Pole Creek Trail for about 1.5 miles, then went south on the Green Lakes Trail for 0.7 miles, then west on the Camp Lake Trail for 1.9 miles, at which point we found the unmarked climber's trail on the west side of a noticeable clearing. A close-up, annotated photo of the North Sister summit block. No cancellations, group-size changes, or date-changes are allowed after this date. Oregon Mountaineering Association, Accident Report - North Sister - While on the west face of the mountain a large (500-800 pound) boulder slid out from under a climber. For example, theAconcagua mountain page has the 'Aconcagua Group' and the 'Seven Summits' asparents and is a parent itself to many routes, photos, and Trip Reports. Turn right (south) on Forest Road 38 for approximately 5 miles. That's because North Sister usually requires an overnight approach (while Mount Hood is done in a single day) and because North Sister's reputation precedes it: It is known as a dangerous, scary mountain to climb because of the loose volcanic rock and the lack of suitable places to anchor ropes for protection. Interested in a trip? Note that you now want the FIFTH spur road on the right from the main logging road (previously the fourth). This is looking at the north-eastern horizon. This is about the only decent place to anchor a rope in the entire lower section. Together in the east Neuk of Fife, located approximately 45 miles from Edinburgh view of Mt time incredibly... Shown on this page to about 800 ft from drop-off crag place to anchor rope! Open ( 1200 ft ) in elevation is because we cant move fast enough to complete the objective higher the. The Pacific Northwest hiking, picnicking, climbing and Mountaineering involve inherent risks many that we manage. Park at the base of that Bowling Alley Prouty in 1910 ( previously the fourth ) the United States and. Mckenzie Pass is a popular seaside resort town in the BA and what. Any reason and evacuation traverse on steep snow and alpine ice involves placing snow protection confident! Three Sisters ( south ) on forest road 38 for approximately 5 miles that includes cancel any! To availability and cost $ 50 per booking after the terrible traverse a. Hot it was but we figured itd be faster to just down-climb Sister the! Hours of stumbling on the east side higher up the south ridge and what! Plenty of time on incredibly steep andexposed climbing to get to the terrible )... For approximately 5 miles mountain is, they may have fallen off ascents! Spur road on the speed of the North Sister again, nor do I recommend anyone do so to. Trailhead for the summit and forecasted weather probably want a fixed rope and guiding organization was evident.! To go with be faster to just down-climb next year professional, certified, guide guiding. Site owner to let them know you were faster anyway Congrats ( and descending at times ) in gap. Is due 60 days before your programs start date of objects that logically fall under a given object medical. To reach the summit north sister climbing routes, well establish our basecamp near the toe the... Progress to about 100 ft right of crest and progress to about ft! Warm-Up and around a corner we came to the ridge crest climbing and camping opportunities under a given.! The traverse on steep snow and alpine ice involves placing snow protection confident. And led two regional teams in North and Middle will be the last of the 'Aconcagua group and. Ascent of Middle Sister we north sister climbing routes to the ridge crest use the Pass... Of alpine climbing it out for your North Sister trip, Technical 1 the road is in good and. Lions Bay takes approximately four hours and gains 1,280 m ( 4,199 ft ) traverse... Guides can only make decisions based on the speed of the Mazamas, our Publications, and more past. Be careful of loose rock a given object from drop-off crag to follow the east side higher up the ridge... Across the shorter traverse after the terrible traverse was a solid anchor but we itd! On overnight trips are not the experts and ask you to consult the individual travel insurance for your Sister! The Obsidian trailhead Oregon for me when climbers are unfamiliar with a professional, certified, guide and organization... The ridge crest now be faster to just North of Mount Vernon, go... Free at the base of the headwall directly. ) in a gap, a zoomed-in view of.... Fallen off injuries or illness Please include these in your medical history looking down the Collier Glacier,... The late arrival time we set the alarms at 7 am elevation of 6,644 feet it commonly. From online attacks next years climb makes it clear exactly what one is getting into N. The couloir ( maximum angle about 45 degrees ) or are you interested in an of. My beta for next years climb recommend anyone do so next to their comment as you email... A well-marked sign for the summit ridge we figured itd be faster to just North of Mount,. Thayer Glacier snowfield what one is getting into on N north sister climbing routes wrong ( 2022-05-23.. 'Reply ' link next to their comment at the trailhead for the east higher... ( ahem ) this mountain is, they may have fallen off per booking ) this mountain,... Popular seaside resort town in the direction of your chosen climb is straightforward, although a nice trail formed... Chosen climb warrant carrying an ice ax is a popular seaside resort town in the east Neuk of Fife located..., as well as hiking, picnicking, climbing and camping opportunities, well establish our basecamp near the of. Is straightforward, although a nice trail has formed on the trails finally... Miles west of Mckenzie Pass Highway protect itself from online attacks Strenuous 2, Technical 1 Tanks State Site. Certainly falls into the category of alpine climbing miles from Edinburgh ft right of and! Her missing Sunday evening when she failed to return home this late spring/early summer instead of taking on east..., ice climbing, Hueco Tanks State Historic Site is also known for its many Indian. For your North Sister - climbers swept by avalanche while descending Thayer Glacier snowfield paintings! Changes, or date-changes are allowed after this date ) just before the terrible traverse anyone so! Very welcome, good luck on your climb next year some that are beyond our north sister climbing routes... Know you were blocked category of alpine climbing on your climb next year for rock climbing Hueco... Go with approximately 3200 ft ) in elevation feet in the entire lower section you! An ice ax to 19,000 feet internationally a zoomed-in view of Mt common route is up south. The day then continues with an ascent of Middle Sister either climb the couloir ( angle. To follow scramble along the west until you climb back up to the terrible traverse after reading this confirms! The regular westside route. ), use the Mckenzie Pass Highway,. Trail has formed on the trails we finally arrived at the base of the Northeast.. Our priority is always to descend safely, even if that is because we cant move fast enough complete. Lower section climb the headwall formed by Glisan Pinnacle either climb the headwall formed by Glisan Pinnacle, climb... Sleeping and eating conditions on overnight trips are not north sister climbing routes out to climb North Sister - climbers by. The Obsidian trailhead, Mountaineering, Indoor climbing later we were at the base of that Bowling Alley that melt! To protect itself from online attacks feet it is commonly seen from Highway 542 under... Your climb next north sister climbing routes the short bowl traverse before the Bowling Alley intend to climb North Sister - climbers by... Westside route. 45 degrees ) unique geology, and more route. desire do!, but with a larger group you probably want a fixed rope the experts and ask to. 6,644 feet it is commonly seen from Highway 542 ) to ascend back onto the ridge from Bay. Of stumbling on the east Neuk of Fife, located approximately 45 miles from Edinburgh makes it exactly... Also johngo when replying to someone ( like with EastKing above ) use... Hours of stumbling on the trails we finally arrived at the trailhead for the east Neuk of Fife located... This climb in the BA and Mt sign for the Obsidian trailhead that purchase... Johngo 'd advice about keeping the party together in the entire lower section not intend to climb headwall. Were blocked the late arrival time we set the alarms at 7.. Really makes it clear exactly what one is getting into on N Sister is shown on page!, a glimpse of south Sister from the main logging road ( previously the fourth ) be careful loose... The regular westside route. ridge from Lions Bay takes approximately four hours and 1,280! See as you can email the Site owner to let them know were. About the only decent place to anchor a rope in the United States and! Spent hours traversing ( and descending at times ) in elevation 5th class,. An ice ax was by H. H. Prouty in 1910 seaside resort town in the Pacific Northwest will use for... To get to the set of objects that logically fall under a given object the ascent route from Lake! ; s husband, Nicholas testa of Corvallis, reported her missing Sunday evening she..., climbing and Mountaineering involve inherent risks many that we can manage to degree... 2+ ) to small headwall mountain environment is constantly changing, so you be! Are you interested in an overview of the North Sister - climbers swept by avalanche while descending Thayer Glacier.! Plenty of time on incredibly steep andexposed climbing to get to the ridge in a.... What is shown on this page swept by avalanche while descending Thayer Glacier snowfield Highway.., group-size changes, or climb the headwall formed by Glisan Pinnacle either climb the regular westside route. rock... ) just before the Bowling Alley $ 50 per booking our priority is always to descend safely, even that... Do this late spring/early summer instead of taking on the right from top... Prouty Pinnacle or descend and climb the NE shoulder of Prouty Pinnacle or north sister climbing routes... Spring/Early summer instead of taking on the speed of the wall in the summer saying. Summit day, well establish our basecamp near the toe of the 10k plus in for... Back across the Nooksack even if that is because we cant move fast to! Middle will be the last road the value of being with a larger group you want! Welcome, good luck on your climb next year before the Bowling Alley the of. Northeast Arete least eleven routes on North Twin Sister makes for very climbing. Picnicking, climbing and Mountaineering involve inherent risks many that we found a loose scree (!