Melt the oils, butters, and waxes over a double boiler (or in the microwave, if you prefer). Then slowly incorporate your water ingredients into the oil ingredients while stirring continuously. Anyway, the skinny on this is that BTMS-50 is better because: 1. I really love these quick guide posts . The cetyl alcohol amount was decreased because of the increased amount of BTMS-25. This is such detail info and I thank you sooo much for it. In a recipe, we use other things like silicones, butters, liquid emulsifiers.. The key difference between cetyl alcohol and cetearyl alcohol is that cetyl alcohol is a single chemical compound, whereas cetearyl alcohol is a mixture of chemical compounds.. Cetyl alcohol and cetearyl alcohol have different chemical and physical properties and different applications. BTMS-50 is about 50% BTMS and (I forget the exact percentage) most of the rest of it is Cetyl Alcohol. A small remaining percentage is a moisturizer. What is the INCI of your CA? Happy making! Recommended dosage: 2-10%, or 10-15% for a thick body butter. cocoa butter is also drier, a harder butter it is not too greasy. It also helps to stabilize oil-water mixes (emulsions), though it does not function as an emulsifier in itself. How to Use Cetearyl Alcohol in Cosmetics Presenting as white to off-white flakes, this oil soluble ingredient usage rates depend on the product. I melt the hard oils, let them cool, and then add the liquid oils. Here's why: While your water phase ingredients are heating, some water will be lost to evaporation. As I already mentioned lotions and body butters are germ-magnets, in which it is essential to include a preservative. Sterilization: Please ensure all equipment, containers, and utensils have been disinfected with 91% IPA before you begin. Add the jojoba oil. I use 5% beeswax in my emulsifying sugar scrubs and I dont like the waxy feel on my skin after using it. 6. Hi Marie, I use stearic acid at 8% already, so how much should I increase it to to drop the beeswax and incorporate cetyl alcohol? I see it most often in lotions and creams, where its usually used around 3%. soft butters work best but you can also use any vegetable butter (Shea Butter . Yes to both; Im actually experimenting with the second one right now It is helping reduce the skid that can come with lots of beeswax, and is creating a faster absorbing product! Sharon Vile (author) from Odessa, MO on December 31, 2017: Mary, I may have mentioned this in the article, but I was told by someone very knowledgeable that the best things to combat dry skin are oils that contain gamma-linolenic acid (GLA). 2023 The Arena Media Brands, LLC and respective content providers on this website. Its quite similar than Skinchakras sample in terms of look and action + far more easy to make and customize (used squeeze bottle). I have a question , do we have to measure the PH level when we making a body butter? Gently stir the oils and waxes to combine. I hope this clarifies our question about thickeners. If you were using a recipe that did not divide the ingredients into separate phases, you would have to look up a bunch of them online before you began, to find out whether they were water-soluble, oil-soluble, or heat sensitive. Good luck & happy making! We usually use cetyl alcohol in products that requires easy spreading like product used on body, hands and legs. Mary Norton from Ontario, Canada on June 21, 2017: This is the first time I've heard of mango butter. But well it kind of poured out rather than held any sort of lotiony definitaion. Im in the Caribbean so it gets pretty hot. Cetearyl alcohol pops up in this formulation as an emollient and thickener, paired with stearic acid. I tried to cover everything I've learned. Ive been using cetyl alcohol in my lotions and now I better understand why I like it. BTMS 50 = emulsifier. Cetyl Alcohol has skin benefits in its own right, and 3. by Marie | May 11, 2017 | Quick Guides, The Basics | 92 comments. They're found in animals and plants, like . It simply will be easier to ship infused hair oils if they are thick. Im hoping for a lotion like consistency but its choppy. Can Cetyl Alcohol be used to thicken Hair Oils? The most commonly used emulsifier is BTMS, which can be either BTMS-50 or BTMS-25. i know i should bug the beauty brains about this & i promise i will if theres any there there. listing of the absorption rates of several oils, 12 ounces sunflower oil (Since sunflower oil is slow absorbing, you might want to use half sunflower oil and half of a "dry" slow-absorbing oil, such as hazelnut oil. 2. This one is also super solidno finger denting happening here, and running a finger over the surface doesnt cause any melting. Muchlove, suki, Thanks for the update, Suki! Running my finger over the surface quickly starts to melt the mixture and results in some lovely, silky slip. It also gives the nice silky finish to the lotion as compared to steraic acid that gives a rich-thick feeling. the good: Helps to improve the texture of formulations, protect the skin from moisture loss and reduce the ability of allergens and bacteria to affect the skin. D-L Panthenol, aka Pro-Vitamin B5, is a stable lit racemic mixture of D-Panthenol and L-Panthenol. From here on out, you stick blend the mixture every ten or fifteen minutes while it cools. You could increase the water phase by adding aloe vera or a hydrosol, or just by adding more distilled water. Cetearyl Alcohol. Massage things need to be ultra-slippy, so cetyl alcohol was an obvious choice here! My hair loved it and am actually able to go a full day and a half without washing my hair before it begins to look like rubbish. If you have problems with the stability of this emulsifier, you can try using 5-7% Olivem 1000 with 1%-4% cetearyl alcohol or cetyl alcohol, and 0.2-0.5% xanthan gum to form a stable emulsion. Lovely post. Cas Number. Question: Can you use milk in your body butter recipe? It vanishes into the skin but never really melts. Drop the BTMS 50 and your lotion wont emulsify! that Marie extols the virtues of in her awesome c.a. I think the extra SL and glycerin were a good idea too. Make it Up: The Essential Guide to DIY Makeup and Skin Care is now available at booksellers all over the world! Spray each jar and lid with IPA and wipe with paper towels. Can cetyl alcohol be used 1 for 1 substitution for beeswax in the cream bronzer from your book? Cetyl alcohol is considered an "oil-free" moisturizer. Wow I cant believe this came up when Searched it! Method: In a heat-resistant beaker, add ingredients from phase A. Paired with silky coconut oil and conditioning BTMS-50 this massage butter is utterly divine. If you add some colorant (such as maybe a little pink mica) at this point, you will be fairly confident that everything is mixed in evenly, because you'll be able to see that the mica is evenly mixed. I need to know how much cetyl alcohol to use for a 200ml leave in conditioner. BASIC WHIPPED BODY BUTTER FORMULA. . I put a tiny amount of beeswax in my pure body butters just to bring the melting point up and because I like the protective layer it leaves on your body that seals the moisture in. BTMS is a pretty good thickener in its own right. This one is like 1:5, just moreso. But you might try increasing the liquids in the water phase a little. Have you ever used it in a body butter? You will also need to heat and hold a saucepan of plain distilled water. DL-Panthenol is nice, but should not change the texture. Dont make me wait til the end of the month! The CA I bought is called Cetyl Alcohol Wax Beads. How odd indeed. I also have never noticed a "draggy" feeling. Super helpful blog post, thanks! When used in formulations over the course of three to four weeks, it has the potential to improve the appearance of the skin, including dryness, roughness, scaling, pruritus and erythema. Make your own body butter with beeswax. Luckily, there is no need to get out the autoclave. Note on selecting oils for your recipe: different oils have different absorption rates. Percentage can be converted to grams easily if you make 100 grams of product. What a great idea! Re the BTMS-50, I would say to calculate how much Cetyl Alcohol is in that (BTMS-25 has none) and reduce the Cetyl Alcohol by that amount. Or you could choose still fancier oils like perilla oil, rosehip seed oil, black cumin seed oil, and tamanu oil, which are available from online suppliers such as Brambleberry, Lotioncrafter, and New Directions Aromatics. If you want a glide lotion for your body or face, you'll want to use cetyl alcohol. It helped me to adjust a recipe to suit my personal consistency preferences, yay! Awwww yeah. Will cetyl alcohol help?? I swear youll be stoked about it by the end of this post, though! The first number is always cetyl alcohol, the second is always olive oil. So if your oil phase is 15% or your lotion, the e-wax should be at 3.75%. I have given it some more thought and I am pretty sure its the Ectoin (supposed to be anti aging. These are products that will make lotions and body butters thicker. Origin. Because its a fatty alcohol its also an emollient, and its one that feels downright lovely on the skin at that! The main reason I use distilled water rather than rosewater or other hydrosols is the expense. If there's a drop of water in it, you need a preservative. So,this is a call out to all peeps who mayve worked w/those cetyl alcohol wax beads that Danica bought? Believe it or not, this simplifies things, since you don't have to wonder which ingredient is added to what, and when. 8-23% Oils and Butters. In something like a body butter bar Ill often reduce the wax in a formulation and replace the lost thickening power with cetyl alcohol to give the end product better slip and skin feel. You can always add scent to your formulations such as essential oils or a fragrance oil, but keep the scent up to 1% as this amount is usually more than enough. Will it acumulate on your skin? Add the cetyl alcohol. 2. Stick blend every 10-15 minutes until mixture becomes emulsified and below 100 F. Add Cool Down Phase ingredients and stick blend well to incorporate. emulsifying, thickening properties of cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol. Find everything you need to make lotion here. Or use one-third each of fast-absorbing, medium-absorbing, and slow-absorbing oils. Its still lovely, just much more familiar. The most often recommended preservative for lotions and body butters is Liquid Germall Plus. Sharon Vile (author) from Odessa, MO on April 08, 2019: Good luck! The thickener (cetyl alcohol) is about 1.3% instead of 3%. I will probably do this for lotions and body butters made for gifts and personal use. If your containers were from a good source they should be clean when you get them, so I doubt that is it. . So, in order to help with those questions (and why I typically say no, there is no good substitution), I wanted to do one of my quick guides using cetyl alcohol. In a different heat resistance container, add phase B, and start with the glycerin. Cetyl alcohol offers thickening, but more than that, it also improves the slip and glide of lotions. Designed by Elegant Themes | Powered by WordPress, You'll need to upload them to a free image hosting service first. Question: Do I need Germall Plus in my whipped butter mix? Excellent experiment Marie! it's a nice touch, but not critical. Add the stearic acid. Weigh out ad mix together the first 5 ingredients: the oil (but not essential oils), butters, and waxes. If youre making a lotion or conditioner and its used at 4% or less, cetearyl alcohol is probably your best alternative. Only D-Panthenol is converted to Vitamin B5 and not the L-Panthenol. to me actually it looked like smallish pieces of plastic. Don't use with: Cetearyl alcohol is safe to use with most other ingredients, but it can be comedogenic when used in . Its a pretty groovy (and inexpensive, which is nice) ingredient . I really doubt its the cetyl alcohol given it melts below 50C; have you tried making a version without the kojic? Hi Marie! I tried 10 different ways to naturally color lotion. What a difference! It may be tempting to skip this step, but I strongly encourage you to do this . If its way too little, then head in the opposite direction. Special Price R79.99 (6) +-Add to Basket . Remove the container from the heat. My GMP makes me a nervous wreck as it is--but I really must try this in the future. Medium-absorbing oils don't need to be balanced. The lotion was very runny which worked great in a pump bottle! Set each jar on the scale and spoon the body butter into it, weighing out however many ounces of body butter you think is right for each jar. 0 - 5%. Woo! Cetearyl Alcohol/Ceteareth-20. Want to help support Humblebee & Me? Yup, many times Heres one. Preparing lotions and body butters in an antiseptic environment is what is known as "good manufacturing practices." It doesnt thicken the product so much and its much easier to apply. (I don't know if this really comes out cheaper or not.). Thanks, Aisha! If you want to evaluate how such a substitution will likely work out, see how these substitutions plug in to the "Lotion and Body Butter Cheat Sheet.". And cheap! Recommended Usage Rate: 2% - 5% used in the cooling phase of formulation.Ingredient Function: Humectant/thickener/conditioning agent/antistatic agent.Excellent for use as a cationic conditioning agent to create moisturizing hair conditioners, thickeners, detanglers, anti-static and other hair care treatments, especially leave-in conditioners and hair masks, due to the extreme humectant (moisture booster and binder) properties provided. The emulsifier (BTMS-25) is about 8.8%, rather than 7%. The cord will flop around all over the place and touch your disinfected stovetop, and who knows what else.). 100g Mango Butter; 37.5g Cocoa Butter; 12.5g Cetyl Alcohol; Cool Down 1. Its typical use level in most cream type formulas is 2-3%. There could possibly be a need to adjust the pH of a body butter or other skin-care product, if you decided to include a pH-sensitive ingredient. Frankincense EO- 0.5%. Melting point is about 154. If you take a look at some of the formulas Ive shared using Olivem1000 you can start to get a second hand idea of how it performs Happy making! Panthenol also works with DMAE in the production of acetylcholine which firms and tones the skin.Both D-Panthenol and DL-Panthenol are equally effective for moisturization, improvement of hair structure and adding luster and sheen to the hair. Click here to learn how! Glycerin is the most commonly used humectant, but some others are Honeyquat and sodium lactate. In one of my earlier blogs, I showed you how to make a whipped body butter from a combination of oils and butter. Whip using a handheld mixer or stand mixer until smooth and airy. Optiphen: can only be substituted with another broad-spectrum . None of the other ingredients I suggest as additions to my body butter recipe are far outside the neutral pH range. So that's the reason for that--if that makes sense. Happy to help I definitely learn a lot when I do these, too! Running a finger over the top of it doesnt cause any noticeable meltit feels dry and almost powdery. In some case, reduce the butters you use to around 10% and use a less greasy butter. Tools. Cetyl alcohol is pretty unassuming. For this sample we decided add 5% berry wax to the blend while lowering the oil concentration to 10% and keeping the mango butter and emulsifier the same. Cetearyl alcohol is a type of fatty alcohol that companies use to make various cosmetic products. Thank you Sharon! If you don't correct for water lost through evaporation, additives, fragrance, and the preservative will be present in the finished product in percentages that may be too high. Although acceptable at 0.5 to 10%, it is typically used at <1.5% in facial emulsionshigher percentages can feel too hydrating, as if you are almost sweating. My whipped butter mix ensure all equipment, containers, and waxes over a double (... Lotion, the second is always olive oil also super solidno finger happening. 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